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Public transportation may not seem like an activity you want to experience on holiday, but Baku’s tidy metro and web of underground pedestrian passages (most with escalators) make it supremely easy to pack lots of sights into one day, even if they’re across town.
The underground stations themselves even showcase dramatic design, such as with the Old City’s glass pyramid and carpet-print entrance and the fluted columns of the platform at Ganjlik Mall, the largest mall in Azerbaijan.
Its neighbour, the massive Crystal Hall, was built for Eurovision 2012.
Since 2015, Azerbaijan’s currency has halved in value against the pound.
Travelling to Azerbaijan used to mean a convoluted and inconvenient visa process that turned off travellers and stifled tourism.
Visitors who take advantage will find plenty of things to see: a cosmopolitan, affordable capital of good eats, incredible architecture – and, most importantly, friendly cats.
Baku sits in a natural bay on a peninsula jutting out into the Caspian Sea.
The Heydar Aliyev Centre (Heydər Əliyev Mərkəzi) is Azerbaijan taking a hard stance against the brutalist Soviet architecture of its past for a future of beauty and technology.
It’s a masterwork of Zaha Hadid’s firm and stunning from every angle, inside and out. Entry is 15 manat (£6.90) and for the fee you’ll be able to access an exhibition on Heydar Aliyev, a floor of detailed scale models of Azerbaijan’s most important architectural works, and a small museum showcasing Azerbaijani crafts, customs, and culture.
It comes complete with fresh lemon slices, cubed sugar, a variety of nuts and dried fruits and a plate of fresh , Azerbaijan’s version of baklava.